Monday, 19 May 2014

Recreate that Look - Minor Cuts

Hello beauties!

I hope you had a good weekend. Mine was great! I had my 29th birthday yesterday, and we had some family and friends over on Saturday to celebrate. Unfortunately the pics of this didn't come out too great, so I don't have some to share with you. :( Next year I'll do better!! Haha! I do have three pics of myself and Kayla to share with you. Jan took these on Saturday before the guests came, and I love them!!



Anyway, on to today's post!

Loooong ago, I did this look :


And today I thought I'd recreate it. Well, sort of. I want to show you the basic technique I use to create minor cuts.

Please keep in mind that this is special effects makeup and I'm not being beaten at home. Nobody is hurting me, so please don't call the police or something. The photo above and all the photos to follow are of makeup. :) I'm in now way promoting violence of any nature. I'm simply interested in the art of makeup, in all its aspects. OK, cool. Now we can continue.

What I used :



This is the BH cosmetics 88 matte colour palette. I imported it, in case you're in South Africa and are wondering how in the world I got that specific palette. As far as eyeshadow is concerned, you'll need black, deep red and a variety of natural shades. I also used some dark green.

Along with that, you'll need foundation, setting powder, a deep red lip liner and a black eyeliner. Then the exciting stuff, scar wax and fake blood. Please note that mine is TERRIBLE quality that I bought at a costume shop once upon a time.

To apply all of this I used nail art brushes, because they're much finer and the bristles are a lot more stiff than my makeup brushes. Also, they were much less expensive than some of my makeup brushes, so I don't mind if they get gooey from the wax. I applies the was with my nail art dotting tool. You heard me. :)

What's most important is a toothpick and a COTTON BUD.

OK. Now onto the steps.

 Step one.

Prep your skin by washing it and applying a primer (if you want to, I didn't).

Mark the area where you want the cut to go. Usually, you'll use a white liner, but for the purpose of clarity on the photo, I used black.
 Step two.

Apply the wax. This works best if you apply it in small quantities and allow it to heat against your skin before spreading it. This stuff is friggen sticky, so you'll probably have to heat it well before it moves as you want it to.

Don't apply a lot. With clean, shallow cuts, like this one, less is more. If you were doing something like an animal bite, or cuts created by claws (jagged edged stuff), you would need more wax to make it seem like ruptured skin. The deeper the cut, the more wax you'll need.

Blend the edges with your cotton bud, so that it seamlessly melts into your skin.

POWDER THIS WELL!!!! Otherwise it won't stay. As you can see, I went nuts with the powder, because I know from experience that the scar wax will tear and break off if it doesn't set.

 Step three.

Apply foundation. I used the cotton bud for this as well, because it continued to mold the wax into the shape I wanted it to be as I worked.

Apply this in a wide area, going all the way over the surface that will be visible.

Set the foundation with powder.
 Step four.

Here comes the fun!!

Make the incision. :P I have always wanted to say that!!

Place the toothpick, and with a firm, gentle motion, pull it through the wax. Go in one direction, don't move back and forth.

If you have to lift the toothpick for whatever reason, wipe it down before you continue the cut. Wax adheres to wax, and especially with the cheaper stuff, a clumped toothpick will pull out chunks of wax. :P

Step five.

With a very fine brush, fill in the cut with black eyeliner, and then go over it with black eyeshadow to set it.

Try to stay inside the lines as far as possible, but you can always clean any mistakes away with your cotton bud and foundation.

 Step six and seven.

Go over the black with red eyeshadow and the same brush. You don't even need to wipe it down! Haha!

Then, using a new brush and a eyeshadow a few shades lighter than your skintone, go around the edges of the cut.

This is where my art teacher's voice rings in my mind : for every shadow, there is a highlight. And it's so true!! Trust me on this, when your skin suffers whatever trauma, it becomes lighter for a moment or two. Pinch yourself if you don't believe me.

This step is important for it to look realistic. Don't worry about being neat, you're going to work over this again in the next step.

 Step eight.

Go around the edges again, leaving a small amount of the light colour visible. Using the red and a mixture of natural shades, pat the colour onto your skin. This will make it all seem bruised.
 Step nine.

Draw in some light veins using a mixture of green and red. This is another thing to remember when doing cuts and bruises; whenever the skin suffers trauma, veins are more visible.
 Step ten.

Go into the cut with your red lip liner and then apply the fake blood.

You could stop at this step if you wanted to, but I didn't. :P

I added more blood and then patted it lightly with my fingertips to make it look a little worse.


The longer you wear this, the more the wax will crack around the cut, just like a real cut would, if left untreated. (due to the skin drying out.) The blood will dry and settle into the cracks as well.

I find that these kinds of makeup looks become more and more real-looking as they settle. About an hour or two after you apply the makeup, it seems to look the best.

With the split lip look, I used a lot more blue and purple, because I wanted it to seem as if blunt force trauma had caused it. So there had to be bruising around the skin. That's probably the main difference between the looks. :)

Let me know if you have better tips and tricks!!

Have a fabulous week folks!

Stay beautiful and be kind to animals,

Yolandie

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